Freiburg
11 September 2017, continued
Route 31 headed west from Titisee to Freiburg, and went through a ridiculous twist around a cliffside. Every time I drive on roads like these, I can't help but think of making a video game race track based off them. That way, we can go as fast as we want without wrecking our car when we (most definitely) fly off the edge of the road! In between cliffsides, around bends, and up and down hills, this was a great drive. A giant statue of a stag stood high on one of the cliffs by the road, overlooking the cars winding far below. German roads are typically pretty fast, but cars were taking their time on this one.
There was an easy parking garage right by the Schwabentor that led to Freiburg's old town, and we were instantly immersed! We strolled though the beautiful old city, and an old city it certainly was. Unfortunately, so much of the city had to be reconstructed after WWII, but they kept the ancient specifications... and still a good bit of the old city still remains. The stories these cobblestone streets and half-timber houses could tell! One of my favorites I read not too long ago... Outside the walls is the Schlossberg, a large hill where the duke's castle once stood. Back in the olden days, the duke wasn't being so great to his people. So, the citizens of Freiburg got a few catapults and laid siege to his castle! When you are in cities that are this old, the history is just fantastic!
Freiburg is known for its cobblestone streets and the tiny canals that run alongside them. Called Bächle, these flow with water diverted from the river and were once used to bring clean water into the city. These were used for irrigation, to help with putting out fires, and to provide clean water sources for the people and animals in the city. They are said to date back to the 1100s! The nicest thing about them is that they were never used as a sewer or waste system, and have always been relatively clean. They add an amazing character to the city, and have been a popular place for kids to play. Walking through the streets we saw toy boats, rubber ducks, and many other toys "anchored" to the walls of the canals. Apparently it is local superstition that if you fall into one, you are destined to marry someone from Freiburg. These Bächle were super cool!
We wandered through the streets, stepping over the canals and tram tracks that run through the city, though like many of these old streets, it was mostly pedestrian. Outside of each shop was a stone sidewalk, with the stones arranged to make a picture of the shop's specialty. There was a beer glass outside the beer store, a diamond outside the jeweler, and even a pretzel outside the bakery. We were amazed by the many little details scattered all across the city. We followed the streets up to the Münsterplatz, the large city square lined with beautiful buildings, all facing the Gothic cathedral in the center. The cathedral was just stunning! Intricate details covered every inch of the patchwork stones of the dark brown façade, and the tower climbed high overhead. We circled around the building, admiring the architecture that – just like I said in Vienna – was the type of architecture that I could just stand and marvel at all day. Eventually, we did go into what looked like a vestibule area. There were these three girls that caught my attention while we were looking around, they seemed to be sitting in one spot, then moving and sitting in another spot, and so on. Strange I thought, but no big deal.
We went in through the front doors to the magnificent interior that was illuminated by light pouring in through the stained glass. The attention to detail in the building continued to the interior, it just seemed that everything we looked at was intricately detailed. We walked throughout the cathedral, eyes wide and filled with awe. As we approached the back we heard music like the sound of angels. Normal, as some of these churches do play some background choir music for the people coming in to look. But it grew louder as we approached the doors. We opened them to head back to the vestibule, and there to our surprise stood those three girls I noticed earlier, their voices filling this small area like I've never heard before. I guess earlier they were looking for the best spot to sing, and it sure sounded like they found the place. The acoustics in the small area were incredible, and their voices stunningly beautiful. We stood by and watched them sing for a bit, the wind ripping through the open vestibule not daunting them in the least. We were so appreciative that we were able to see this!
So if you come all the way to Germany, considering the world famous German brewing history, you need to find yourself a good beer. Sounds cliché I know, and people often over-associate Germans with beer, but they do really make some good stuff! I am a fan of good beers, and I like to seek out the local specialties of my destinations, so German beer it is! We've tried a bunch of the local brews at the various restaurants and pubs we've visited over the years of coming here, but haven't yet sought any out specifically. There are a few breweries here in Freiburg, so we decided to change that today.
We passed through the Freiburg Markthalle, which was a nice place if you lived here and wanted to get Japanese or Thai food. As visitors to Germany though, I'm looking for something German! We passed through the market and a lovely little bakery shop by the Martinstor, and then down a small alley street to Martin's Brau. We got our seat on the high top with a nice view of the open-plan kitchen. We wanted something light for a snack, so we ordered the Wurstsalat. We've seen it on a few menus here, and it was really interesting. Strips of what I think is something like bologna, strips of cheese, and other herbs and pickles in an oil & vinegar dressing. It was very simple, and very good! Beth had the pilsner made into a radler, and I tried their seasonal Helles Festbier. Proper German beers and a great snack! As we enjoyed our quick lunch, a group came in to the table next to us. Germany is a super dog-friendly place, and they are welcome just about anywhere. Of course, Germans also expect the dogs to be well trained, almost civilized. If they are, they are free to lounge under the table in a restaurant, or ride with you on the train. The people next to us had their dogs with them, and they sat nicely on the bench, at times looking like they were part of the conversation! Tikaani is my best buddy, but he definitely has a stubborn mind of his own. Not sure he'd be civilized enough for the Germans!
There is one thing we've seen on menus all across Germany, over all the times we've been here, and we haven't had the courage to try it. Many people these days are familiar with the Radler, the German drink that is a mix of pilsner beer and lemon-lime soda, as it has become popular throughout the world. It's similar to a Shandy. Well there is another one they do, I've seen it called a "Diesel" if made with a dunkel, or if made with Hefe they called it a "Cola-weizen". Based on that name I'm sure you've guessed it... they mix the beer with a cola. The Radler makes sense to me, the light lemon flavor goes well with beer. It's super refreshing. The cola though? I'm super skeptical. We were saying that we had to try it sooner or later, just because... and what better time than at a place where we know the beers are great? Our server came to our table, and we asked his opinion. He made a face and shook his head, saying "nothing should be put in the beer!" Agreed, mostly, but we still had to try. We ordered one to share, despite his grimaces, and readied ourselves for a new, daunting adventure. The drink was a dirty water color, like a brownish-gray, and smelled like cola. We tried it, and... it was weird. As I expected, the cola flavor dominated the beer flavor, but it was like cola with a bitter, fuller body. Had to try it, but can't say it's something we'd do again. But seriously, it is on EVERY menu!!!???
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